Lawn Care and Irrigation

If you are reading this article, you must be ready for sod or seed.

When purchasing sod, keep in mind that locally produced sod is usually grown in a peat field with plenty of water close by, which is not similar to our typical conditions in Ramsey. Most sod varieties are 80-100% Kentucky bluegrass, which is nice to look at, but is high maintenance and performs poorly in sand and shade.

Seeding Creates Better Yards

It may surprise you to know that seeding will create a better yard. When done correctly, your lawn will experience increased longevity and durability compared to sod. The best times to seed are from right after the snow melts until the end of May and again from mid-to-late August through the end of September. Planting after September can result in poor germination and not enough growth to establish itself as a perennial.

Always use fresh seed and use seed that has been known to do well in Minnesota climate. The best grass seed is a blend of bluegrass, perennial rye and fescues. Knowing what type of yard you want is beneficial before selecting your seed. Bluegrass and perennial rye are for show purposes, while fescue varieties are best for shade. Purchase seed from a reputable retailer, who will explain each variety of seed in the mix and how it will be able to meet your needs.

Special Planting

When planted on hills or along the edge of walkout basements, fast-growing annual rye, planted with the perennial mix as a starter, will control erosion more effectively. Ryegrass emits a harmless toxin that kills other broadleaf plants, creating less competition for the survival of the new grass seed.

Ways to Plant

There are many ways to plant and most will work, but the most common practices are slit seeding, broadcast and rolling, and the popular hydro seeding. Mulching grass seed after planting improves the germination of the seed. Rye straw is best for this as few weeds are found in this straw. After the straw blanket is applied, a slit disc will help hold the straw down in place, preventing erosion from wind and rain. The other benefit is that straw helps hold moisture when seeds are starting to grow. Once the grass is up and growing for a few weeks, the straw can be mowed over, which creates valuable compost for soil enrichment.

To save water and help roots grow, apply a highly organic soil layer of at least four inches over the sandy soil. Adding a two-inch layer of clay to the subsoil will significantly improve water retention. Spreading a "salt-free" fertilizer on the soil will encourage strong root growth. Add lime to raise the pH to a level between 6.5 and 7 if necessary.

The next step is to till your soil mixture to a minimum depth of six inches. You now have a rich seedbed that will help grass send roots deep to capture the nutrients needed for growth. This also reduces water and fertilizer waste due to evaporation and harmful runoff.

Watering new grass seed is one of the most essential parts of establishing turf. As little as one hour of drought on a hot, dry day can halt germination, which could mean the yard needs to be replanted. 

Conversely, oversaturating your mulch can lead to mold and kill your seed base. Therefore, water your mulch lightly several times a day. 

Some bluegrass varieties require up to twenty-five days of watering. The first grass to show growth is typically the rye grass variety, not the desirable bluegrass and fescues, so keep watering. Never water just for the sake of watering. Only water when an area is dry.

Homeowners with an irrigation system or portable sprinklers can conserve water by following tips from the University of Minnesota Extension website.

Do

• Water after the sun has gone down to avoid evaporation. Set sprinklers to run between 7:00 p.m. and 5:00 a.m.
• Use low-angle sprinklers that create drops of water to avoid evaporation losses.
• Use proper water pressure to prevent misting, which can result from too high pressure and lead to evaporative losses.
• Use hydro zoning, watering needs grouped by types of landscaping, lighting, and soils.
• Adjust your watering schedule seasonally. Less in spring, fall, and cooler weather.
• Use a moisture sensor to determine watering needs.
• Use an in-line filter to prevent system clogs.
• If supported, cycle the irrigation system - 4 minutes on, 4 minutes off, and repeat this cycle three times.
• Use native plants to reduce watering needs.
• Use micro-irrigation techniques, such as drip, trickle, bubblers, and/or micro-spray jets and sprinklers.
• Consider allowing your grass to go dormant during drought conditions. Established grass doesn't die during dormancy.
• Use a backflow prevention valve to avoid contaminating drinking water supplies (required in Ramsey).
• Hold onto the design layout so future projects do not lead to necessary system repairs due to accidentally digging up water lines.

Don't:

• Water too much (only need to water the root zone, which is about 5 to 8 inches deep for most common grasses).
• Over-fertilize.
• Use broken or impacted sprinklers.
• Water hardscapes like driveways, sidewalks and building walls.

Above-ground sprinklers have been around for many years, and newer sprinklers have design improvements that help save water. Some sprinklers even allow for "shaping" the water distribution to avoid watering hardscapes such as driveways and walkways. These sprinklers are best for circular or rectangular water distribution and are the least expensive mechanical watering system. Above-ground sprinklers have the largest water droplet sizes entering the air with lower velocity, resulting in less wind affecting water distribution than in-ground systems.

In-ground Sprinklers

In-ground sprinklers are less labor-intensive, are typically connected to the watering controller, and offer a wide selection of sprinklers (heads) to target a variety of plants. In-ground systems are more costly than above-ground sprinklers and require more maintenance, such as being blown out with air before winter to prevent freezing damage or replacing/repairing sprinkler heads. Water output from many in-ground systems takes the form of a mist, diverting water away from plants. The wind can also blow the mist away, preventing your property from being appropriately watered. This mist is also susceptible to evaporation.

• In-ground sprinkler systems can range from simple to complex in design and installation, and can be expensive. However, they also offer the widest range of watering options.
• Tip: 1 inch of water is a typical measure of your sprinkler system's water output. When adjusting and setting zones (or even when using a hose) and watering times, use a can (tuna fish or cat food size works well) or cup to see how long it takes to collect one (1) inch of water. This will give you a reasonable estimate of how long the water should be running in a particular area.

Drip Irrigation

Drip (trickle) irrigation systems use narrow, very flexible plastic tubing with small holes that allow water to drip onto the ground. These low-pressure systems allow water to slowly exit the tubing holes in large drips. With large water droplets and a small travel distance, water loss due to wind is minimal. Water savings of 30-50% over spray irrigation systems are common. Drip irrigation kits are inexpensive and relatively easy to install. Drip irrigation works excellently for landscaping, as well as for flowerbeds, gardens, and even patio and deck planters. The most common issue with drop systems is clogs in the holes, which can be hard to locate. Using a filter is recommended and can help prevent some of these clogs.

• Micro-irrigation is for small-area watering, using bubblers, small, focused sprinklers, and jets to direct water precisely to plants. Unlike drip irrigation, micro-irrigation is used in compact areas.

Root Zone Irrigation

Root Zone irrigation, or drip line, is a specialized system and one of the best water distribution options. The tubing is buried and uses small openings to release water at the roots.

Under Minnesota state law, every irrigation system must have a backflow device.

Backflow Devices (PDF)

• Spigots are the original water controllers. The most common problem is leaving the water valve open, but this can be resolved by using a timer on the hose or spigot.
• Manual timers, which typically use mechanical stops to start and stop the flow of water, are another inexpensive option.
• Programmable controllers usually have a timing circuit that allows you to set a variety of variables, such as start time, duration and days of the week.
• Climate-based controllers are considered "smart controllers" and use the local environment (including weather) to determine water settings.
• Sensor-based controllers are another type of "smart controller" that uses a sensor to determine if and for how long the sprinkler system needs to run. They typically use a buried moisture sensor. Sensor-based controllers can be added to existing sprinkler systems, with the moisture sensor being added to a zone manifold's existing low-voltage wiring.

Please visit the Irrigation Association's website for a list of smart controllers tested by the Association, guides to home or commercial irrigation, and other information regarding irrigation best practices.

• Garden Hose Nozzles—Direct water onto plants and shrubs that require additional watering. When washing your car, use a hose nozzle to turn off the water to save more than 100 each washing.
• Outside Surface Cleaning—Use a broom rather than a hose to clean your driveway or sidewalk between rain showers. Sweep the dirt and spread it over your lawn or toss it in the trash. This will not only conserve water but also keep the dirt from entering storm sewers and catch basins.
• Sprinkler Timers—A sprinkler timer can be set to shut off your sprinkler after a specified duration.
• Moisture Test Your Lawn—Use a long screwdriver as a soil probe to test soil moisture. If you can push into your lawn easily for several inches, then don't water. Proper lawn watering can save thousands of gallons of water annually.
• Rain Gauge—Let Mother Nature do the watering for you. If you receive an inch or more of rain per week, you can skip your next watering.
• Shut-Off Device—Nothing wastes water like sprinklers in the rain. Install a rain shut-off device on your automatic sprinklers to eliminate unnecessary watering.
• Soil Aerator—This inexpensive tool will punch holes in your lawn about six inches apart to improve infiltration so that water seeps into the ground around the root zone rather than producing runoff.
• Rain Barrels—Use the water from your downspout by catching it in a mosquito-proof rain barrel. Plants love rainwater because it doesn't contain chlorine and is warmer than tap water.
• Gutter Diverters—Used in conjunction with a rain barrel, gutter diverters have a switch that diverts the water to the landscape or rain barrel(s).
• Rain Chains—Rain chains are designed to replace a downspout and channel water to a specific location, such as a basin or rain barrel. They're pleasing to look at and slow water down, reducing splashing and erosion.
• Hose Bibs—These are the faucets on the outside of your home that you connect your garden hoses to. Check outdoor faucets, pipes, and hoses for leaks.
• Hose Washers—Simply replacing a hose washer can often fix a leaking garden hose connection.

Newly planted trees and shrubs require consistent and regular watering until their root systems are established. Proper mulching helps regulate soil moisture and temperature and reduces weed growth. After planting, the root systems will continue to grow and establish themselves, eventually extending much wider than the plants' above-ground portions.

Find more tips at the University of Minnesota Extension website.